Orange is the new white? Unique amber wine creates buzz

The sloping vineyards of New York’s Finger Lakes region known for producing golden-hued rieslings and chardonnays also are offering a splash of orange wine.

The color comes not from citrus fruit, but by fermenting white wine grapes with their skins on before pressing - a practice that mirrors the way red wines are made. Lighter than reds and earthier than whites, orange wines have created a buzz in trendier quarters. And winemakers reviving the ancient practice like how the “skin-fermented” wines introduce more complex flavors to the bottle.

The wines have caught on in recent years among connoisseurs who like the depth of flavors, sommeliers who can regale customers with tales of ancient techniques and drinkers looking for something different. Christopher Nicolson, managing winemaker at Red Hook Winery in Brooklyn, said the wines hit their “crest of hipness” a couple of years ago, though they remain popular.

“I think they’re viewed by these younger drinkers as, ‘Oh, this is something new and fresh. And they’re breaking the rules of these Van Dyke-wearing, monocled ... fusty old wine appreciators,’” Nicolson said.

It’s not for everyone. The rich flavors can come at the expense of the light, fruity feel that some white wine drinkers crave. Then there’s the idea of an orange chardonnay.

“Actually I wasn’t sure because of the color, but it has a really nice flavor,” said Debbie Morris of Chandler, Arizona. “I’m not a chardonnay person normally, but I would drink this.”

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