Another banner year of pricing gains for California North Coast cabernet sauvignon grapes offset weather-dampened tonnage for chardonnay, allowing the region to eke out a new record $1.50 billion winegrape crop last year, according to figures released Friday in the first official tally.
Tonnage in Sonoma, Napa, Mendocino and Lake counties was 464,765 last year, up 7.8 percent from 2016 and 5.9 percent from the five-year average, based on the California Grape Crush report, compiled by the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s National Agricultural Statistics Service. The report is a benchmark for grape-purchase prices and strategy.
Wineries crushed 205,000 tons from Sonoma County last year. That was down 9.5 percent from 2016, which had the fourth-largest crop of the county, and 10 percent from the average. That was largely because of double-digit percentage hits to Sonoma County’s top varieties, including an almost 19 percent drop for the top grape, chardonnay.
Napa County tonnage was 141,600, down 7.5 percent from 2016 and about as much from average. The county’s king grape, cab, had only a 1.1 percent tonnage hit last year and was up 2.0 percent from average. But like in Sonoma County, Napa chardonnay took a big hit, of nearly 21 percent from last year and from average. Chardonnay also is Mendocino County’s top winegrape, and its 23 percent drop last year led the 9.6 percent slip in total tonnage, to 70,500.
Lake County was the only North Coast county that had total tonnage growth last year, up 2.3 percent to 47,800, led by a 26 percent jump in cab production.
Statewide, it was another 4 million-ton winegrape harvest, with tonnage down just 0.6 percent to 4.01 million tons.
But North Coast average grape pricing was up nearly 9 percent from 2016 and almost 15 percent above average. Napa County’s average topped reached a new high of $5,175 a ton, up 10.4 percent for the year and almost 19 percent above average.
That was led by an 8.4 percent rise in the weighted-average price of Napa cabernet sauvignon, the county’s top variety, also to a new high, of $7,421 a ton. That was about 16 percent above the five-year average, for a second straight year.
“That is by far the highest price ever,” said Brian Clements of Novato-based Turrentine Brokerage, a dealer in grapes and bulk-sold wine. He noted that the price for the intense red grape in 2000 was $3,123 a ton. “These increased prices are great news for growers, but it puts a lot of pressure on wineries and their (brand) programs. I hear a lot of wineries are moving programs out of Sonoma County and Napa County because of the price of grapes. It is very hard to increase the bottle price in the marketplace.”
For Sonoma County’s top winegrape variety, chardonnay, the average price jumped 7.9 percent to $2,317 a ton, 11 percent above average. It went up 4.7 percent to $2,738 in Napa, 5.6 percent to $1,333 in Mendocino and 3.3 percent to $1,303 in Lake.
Weather played a big factor in the chardonnay price, according to Clements and Glenn Proctor of San Rafael-based grape and wine brokerage Ciatti Co. Sonoma County’s chardonnay crop was nearly 19 percent lighter, at almost 61,000 tons, and tonnage was off from the average by the same proportion.