Grape growers across the North Coast are reporting their fruit has begun to change colors, a seasonal rite that signals the region’s $1.5 billion grape crop is quickly ripening and harvest is approaching.
Sonoma County farmers have said their vineyards are undergoing veraison, the French term (pronounced ver-ray-shon) that describes the visual onset of ripening as grapes used to make red wines transform from green to crimson.
It typically means that harvest should start in about six weeks, though picking will begin earlier for fruit used in sparkling wine that comes into the winery with lower sugar levels. Warmer sites, such as the Carneros region in the south near San Pablo Bay, are experiencing the most color change right now.
Growers said the crop, which has declined in size in three of the last four years, is expected to be slightly larger than normal this year.
“We have a good-looking crop,” said David Cook of Cook Vineyard Management in Sonoma, which oversees vineyards in Carneros, Sonoma Valley and the Russian River Valley. He noted that up to 20 percent of his pinot noir crop has already turned red. “It looks to be a great vintage so far.”
Most notably, vineyard managers said this year’s grape crop is 10 to 14 days behind schedule from last year, the result of cooler weather in the spring when flowers on the vine were turning into fruit. If the ripening pace remains constant, most crews will be picking through much of October.
In 2017, harvest started on July 28 for a crop that was valued at $1.5 billion for Sonoma, Napa, Mendocino and Lake counties.
“Mother Nature has been nice so far,” said Chad Clark, manager of North Coast operations for the Allied Grape Growers, which represents about 100 growers and wineries in the region.
Growers said the 2018 season has mostly been uneventful. A mild winter, spring rains and summer heat within historical averages has yielded a crop that is in balance. For example, crews at Renteria Vineyard Management in Napa Valley have had to remove fewer leaves — a task that ensures grapes get enough air flow while remaining protected from the midday sun — because vineyard canopies have grown more evenly this summer than in past years, said Brittany Pederson, director of viticulture at the company.
“There’s not a lot of extra passes we’ve made” in the vineyard, Pederson said.
This year’s growing season marks a major swing from 2017, when a Labor Day heat spike made winemakers pick their chardonnay and pinot noir early or risk them withering on the vines. It was followed by October wildfires that forced some growers to leave cabernet sauvignon and other late varietals to rot as a result of evacuations and smoke damage.
Vineyards were largely unscathed from wildfire damage, although growers did have to replace sheds and equipment that burned in the blazes. Cook said one water well near a vineyard he manages had collapsed as a result of the fires, and he is in the process of repairing it.
“Folks in our community have a heightened awareness and are paying attention. They are a lot more cognizant of the potential (wildfire) damages,” said Karissa Kruse, president of the Sonoma County Winegrowers, the main trade group that represents the county’s grape growers.
This story originally appeared in the Press Democrat.