When Santa Rosa’s iconic Willi’s Wine Bar opened in 2002, owners Mark and Terri Stark described it as a place for “foie gras in flip-flops.” A year and a half after the flagship restaurant burned in the Tubbs fire, the restaurant reopens Thursday without the foie gras. Flip-flops, however, are still welcome.
“We’re picking up where we left off,” Mark Stark said on Wednesday as onlookers pressed their faces against the restaurant’s windows for a peek at the new 3,000-square-foot space in the Town and Country shopping center, less than 4 miles from their old location near Luther Burbank Center for the Arts.
It was the most prominent Sonoma County restaurant destroyed in the fires and for the Starks had served as the roadhouse that launched their restaurant empire, which now includes six restaurants stretching from Santa Rosa to Healdsburg.
Willi’s reopening stands as another benchmark in the fire recovery, a now 19-month period punctuated by loss, grief and persistence for thousands of fire survivors — the Starks, as business owners, among them.
On Wednesday, less than 24 hours left before opening day for Willi’s, Mark Stark was slicing carrots and toting around strawberries in the gleaming new kitchen. Finishing anything was nearly impossible for the popular chef as friends and well-wishers streamed in to congratulate him and wish the restaurant success.
The site, which housed the former Carmen’s Burger Bar and a cabinetry shop, is unrecognizable, with soaring ceilings, brass lighting, a 13-seat bar and a newly built kitchen. Stark said they demolished everything but the exterior walls and roof, creating an open floor plan. The renovation, he said, cost just under $2 million.
“We always go overboard. I guess we just like to save old buildings,” Stark said.
The menu and mission of the restaurant will remain true to the couple’s original vision.
“The vibe is still a neighborhood gathering place,” Stark said. “There’s no airs about it. This is the same place. The only difference is that 17 years after we opened the first Willi’s, Terri and I don’t have to do the tile and paint.”
Construction on the new Willi’s began in November, and neighbors have been both curious and concerned about the opening of such a high-profile eatery in the quiet communities of Grace Tract, Junior College and the McDonald Historic District.
The restaurant will seat 71 people inside and 30 outside, said Terri Stark, who co-owns the restaurant chain in Sonoma County with Mark, her husband. It includes Stark’s Steakhouse, Monti’s, Stark’s Steak and Seafood, Bravas, Bird and Bottle and Willi’s Seafood. The Starks are also opening a Jewish-style deli in Railroad Square called Grossman’s next fall.
Word of the opening began leaking out as the Starks hosted a handful of private events that popped up on social media last weekend, surrounded by a flurry of likes and positive comments. This week a sign on the front door announced that the first regular diners would be served at 11:30 a.m. Thursday.
“Most folks we know are really excited. It’s a wonderful addition to the neighborhood,” said Lise Butier, who attended one of the preview events and lives near the restaurant. “It will be so nice to have something to walk to in the neighborhood. It elevates dining here for sure,” she said as she walked her dog past the restaurant on Wednesday. “We’re coming tonight, because you can’t beat the Starks,” said Butier.
Read more about the recovery from the October 2017 North Bay wildfires: nbbj.news/recovery