Silicon Valley Bank’s State of the U.S. Wine Report urges wine industry to adapt

"What (beverage) would you most likely bring to share at a party?"

That was the question posed to survey takers in advance of the Silicon Valley Bank’s 2024 State of the U.S. Wine Industry Report published earlier this month.

Designed to analyze alcoholic beverage choices among different consumer age groups, the survey question revealed what many in the wine industry already know: younger consumers are still not drinking wine.

But that was just one of the key findings in this year’s highly anticipated report by Rob McMillan, a longtime wine industry analyst and executive vice president of Silicon Valley Bank’s wine division.

Published annually for the past 23 years, the report provides key wine sales data and trends from the previous 12 months and includes predictions for the upcoming year. Its findings are considered invaluable to wine industry professionals steering the ship.

When Silicon Valley Bank, with headquarters in Santa Clara, collapsed in March 2023, McMillan and his cohorts were uncertain what would become of the State of the Wine Industry Report. Fortunately, when the Raleigh, North Carolina-based First Citizens Bank acquired SVB, it retained McMillan and the bank’s Napa-based wine division.

For this year’s report, McMillan and his team combined proprietary research with survey data from more than 500 wineries across the U.S. Here are some of the report’s key findings:

A glimmer of hope

In 2023, sales of wine by volume fell 3%, a three-year decline that is expected to continue in 2024.

But premium wines — those priced $12 and above — provided a glimmer of hope, with an anticipated sales uptick of 1% to 4%, for the year, once fourth-quarter data is tallied.

While inflation was a reality that affected much of the wine industry in 2023, nearly 70% of the premium wineries surveyed were able to partially recover the higher cost of doing business — some with nominal bottle price increases passed along to the consumer.

McMillan also reported tasting room traffic and direct sales to consumers (through wine club memberships, winery websites and tasting room purchases) were down in 2023, but he’s hopeful we’ll see growth in these areas in 2024.

That’s good news in Sonoma County, where many wineries are still navigating a post-pandemic reduction in tasting room traffic.

At Rodney Strong Vineyards in Healdsburg, John Busby, director of direct-to-consumer and hospitality, said the winery hopes to lure more on-site guests in 2024 through events that are “approachable, affordable and authentic.”

“Should industry headwinds persist in 2024, our approach to visitation is to continue to lean in on the guest experience,” said Busby. “We plan to offer ‘peek behind the curtain’ events with our winemaking and viticultural team that are smaller, more intimate, and affordable. They’ll provide guests a hands-on experience in the cellar and 1-to-1 opportunities to ask questions (to) get to know our winemaking team. Prediction is very difficult, particularly about the future, but we’re positioned to take what comes.”

Oversupply tipping the scales

As demand for wine continues to decline, California grape growers are facing a surplus of fruit and planted acres and are struggling to figure out how to manager their crops.

Jeff Bitter, president of Allied Grape Growers in Fresno, recently spoke on the subject at the Unified Wine & Grape Symposium in Sacramento. He said grape growers need to be realistic about decreased demand and recommends California reduce its bearing acreage by 30,000 acres to help balance the scales.

Enticing younger consumers

For years, the wine industry has been challenged to attract younger drinkers who often eschew wine for beer, spirits, cider and other alcoholic beverages.

This year’s report showed little has changed over the past 12 months, with consumers age 65 years and older continuing to purchase the lion’s share of wine. When questioned what beverage they would bring to a party, 58% said wine, compared to other age groups that indexed nearly 30% lower.

The youngest drinkers (age 21-34) were only 16% likely to bring wine to a party, compared to beer (21%), spirits (18%), flavored malt beverages (18), hard seltzer (17%) and cider/RTDs (ready-to-drink beverages) at 10%.

In fact, 2023 will mark the first time in 43 years that volume sales of spirits will surpass that of wine, according to Shanken News Daily.

In a marketplace flooded with alcoholic beverages touting edgy labels, convenient packaging, low-calorie/low-alcohol promises and budget-friendly pricing, it’s no wonder younger consumers are being lured away from wine.

Looking forward, McMillan said “success will come when (the wine industry) … adapts to consumers with different values than the +60 crowd.” He urged the industry to “show the will to change and the creativity to evolve and adopt a new approach that … appeals to a more diverse population.”

The sober-curious movement

The moderation movement is alive and well, according to this year’s report, which reveals an increasing number of consumers reducing their alcohol intake or abstaining altogether.

Siting a July 2023 Gallup poll, the report reveals 54% of consumers age 21-34 believe moderate drinking is “bad for your health,” along with 39% of those age 35-54 and 29% of people age 55+.

According to a survey conducted by NC Solutions, 61% of Gen Zers (those born between 1997 and 2002) plan to cut back on alcohol in 2024.

One bright spot, however, is the new market for nonalcoholic wine, which grew 83% in 2023, according to Beverage Alcohol Insights.

At BevZero, a Santa Rosa-based company that produces low/no alcohol wines and beverage de-alcoholization services, General Manager Matt Hughes has witnessed significant growth in the category.

“Over the last few years, there’s been a lot of curiosity about low/no alcohol wines, but we’ve really seen the momentum pick up with people committing to projects,” said Hughes. “I think low alcohol wines are a great entry point for brands who want to enter the low/no space and have a product that is still considered wine. This side of our business is growing, which has been really exciting for us.”

Many analysts believe the sober curious is being driven by both physical and mental health concerns, along with social media influencers promoting health and wellness. The World Health Organization’s robust anti-alcohol campaign that claims “no amount of alcohol is safe to drink” is also believed to have played a role.

As traditional wine sales dip and low/no alcohol wine sales rise, perhaps the former can learn from the latter to help drive wine sales across the board.

AI is here to stay

In March 2023, Treasury Wine Estates unveiled a website co-created with AI. Rather than employing coders, designers, photographers and content developers, the company looked to AI.

Justin Noland, the senior director of DTC marketing and e-commerce at Treasury Wine Estates in Napa, oversaw the project. He said the company regularly uses AI to streamline its business.

“My team is increasingly using AI as a tool to expand our bandwidth and allow us more time to be creative and innovative,” Noland said. “It allows us to extend what is possible with the limited resources we have. This includes brainstorming new ideas, creating strategy, writing copy for products and blogs, strengthening website search engine optimization, formatting creative for ads, taking meeting notes, and a lot more. There’s very little limit on how AI could be helpful.”

According to McMillan’s report, 50.6% of survey responders said they are aware of regenerative AI, while nearly 24% understand the topic relatively well, but know they have a lot more to learn. About 21% report they’re interested in learning more, but “feel largely lost on the topic today.”

McMillan points out the wine industry has made many advances in winemaking and grape growing over the past 30 years, while many business processes have lagged behind. Both he and Noland agree AI will play an increasingly important role in the industry moving forward.

“Each aspect of the wine industry may use these tools differently, but the common theme is that AI can create bandwidth,” Noland said. “That bandwidth gives us the opportunity to focus in more on the challenges in front of us. Whether it is reaching a new generation of wine consumers, delivering on sustainability goals, or producing world class wine, there’s a good chance that AI will play a role in the near future.”

Looking forward

At the beginning of his report, McMillan quotes Charles Darwin who said, “It is not the strongest of the species that survives, not the most intelligent that survives. It is the one that is the most adaptable to change.”

McMillan believes the wine industry must adapt and work together to navigate the changing marketplace. Only then will it survive and thrive.

You can reach Staff Writer Sarah Doyle at 707-521-5478 or sarah.doyle@pressdemocrat.com. On X (Twitter) and Instagram @whiskymuse.

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